An Evening Naked on Zen Beach on Koh Phangan

Zen Beach on Koh Phangan is one of Thailand’s most iconic islands – famous for its nightly drumming circles, fire shows, and its free-spirited, clothing-optional vibe. Located near Srithanu village, this beach attracts backpackers, travellers, and locals who gather every evening to play, dance, and celebrate. During my visit, I was swept into the rhythm of the drums, the glow of the fire performers, and the liberating energy that makes Zen Beach unlike any other spot in Southeast Asia.

I had a long, butt-naked swim in the ocean and enjoyed an evening in the nude on Zen Beach, Thailand’s most well-known “nude beach”. The air was thick with the smells of cannabis and citronella. I sat near “Spanish Jesus” – long hair, white pants, and a guitar – when another guy pulled out a bamboo flute. Soon everyone was adding to the music, creating a harmonic hippy soundtrack.

Guys, let’s admit it: you get Growers and Showers. I’ve always been curious about the human body, and I’ve often sneaked a peek at the bits of those I’m close with. But I think it takes extra balls to strip off all your kit as a man in front of strangers if you’re a Grower, and not a Shower.

There are party posters everywhere as you arrive on Koh Phangan, which makes sense. I knew I was headed to one of the Thailand party islands. I had taken great advice from a friend to stay in the north-western part of the island. The craziness erupts in the south-west, which includes the infamous full-moon parties. Up to 30,000 humans can flock to these.

Koh Phangan is also very hilly with some brutally steep climbs. The youths seem to mostly emerge around noon each day, so one can enjoy long rides all morning with few foreigners on the undulating roads. At every peak is a stunning ocean view. I hiked to the highest viewpoint solo, which was a multiple orgasm for the eyes.

I was so happy to stumble across a market where all the locals buy fresh produce! I stocked up my fridge with a colourful variety of fresh fruit, veg and cashew nuts. A single carrot and zucchini were the size of my forearms! (Veg in popular Thai dishes often consist of just 3 pieces of peeled cucumber, so it’s great to have other veg at hand to nibble on).

Before leaving Koh Phayam the previous week, I managed to retrieve my swallowed bank card! It felt like half the small island knew about my plight, and a chain of phone calls led to a knock on my bungalow door to tell me the good news.

I celebrated by having the BEST massage I’ve ever experienced! I even got the bamboo stick treatment. It’s called Bam Bam Massage. My final night was at a psytrance dance in the jungle, with awesome décor. I was the first to start shaking a tail feather and squeak some feet. Others soon joined in on the fun.

It took 10 hours to get to Koh Phangan via: taxi, speedboat, bus, bus, another bus, ferry, and a final taxi. I got dropped off at this very fancy resort and thought it must be too good to be true. It was. My little guesthouse was across the road, but I loved it.

Next: Koh Phangan Xantiva Ice Bath & OXA Party

Previously: Hippy Bar & Happy Islanders

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