In the 11th century, the Javanese priest Empu Kuturan, first established a temple in Uluwatu. It was then pimped-out by another popular priest known for his seafront temples. Empu retreated to the completed temple to live out his final days, when he attained moksa – meaning “freedom from Earthly desires”. It was 1 million Rupiah to get in, so I gave it a miss.
September and October fall under what is called “shoulder season” in Bali – a time worth visiting between both high and low tourist season, and in-between wet and dry seasons. It was a beautiful 27-28 degrees C on most days, with blue and semi-cloudy skies and a gentle breeze. I had been thoroughly enjoying my morning bike rides in Uluwatu and visited every beach around the Floppy Fin of southern Bali. The roads are small and curvy and mostly smooth sailing. I considered how awesome it has been to start every day with an ocean dip and potential snorkel, but when it’s high tide, us swimmers have to give way to the surfers to live out their wet dream, unless you want to risk getting skegged on the head!
The two nights spent at that really cheap homestay labelled as “passable” on Booking dot com, was actually quite a lekker experience. The water went off twice and there was no hot version, but a little cool trickle from the shower was enough to clean one’s body and teeth. A toddler pressed her chubby face against my window twice and the chickens are very vocal in the early morning, but as I said in my review,
“Reading the negative reviews, Bali is a tropical island, so insects of all kinds are expected. Homestays are also an opportunity to live in the same space as the locals, which can be wonderful! Their kids might tap on your window while you’re having a nap, their chickens might wake you, it may not be super clean, but any seasoned backpacker knows to pack their own pillowcase, earplugs and a sleep mask. Don’t expect luxury and just enjoy and prepare for the experience”. (I haven’t packed my own pillowcase but the advice still stands)!
There was a young, long-haired Aussie staying there who came for 1 night and ended up staying for 3 weeks and counting. He had a lovely rapport with the family. While chowing down on a HUGE portion of nasi goreng (Bali’s signature dish) the matriarch was busy plaiting his hair, while the toddler was dancing to his mix of tasteful music. At a later stage the family was making banana leaf baskets with fillings of flowers, incense, and rice. These offerings to the Hindu gods are also something so wonderful about Bali. They are everywhere.
The night before, I followed my ears to some live music. The owner of the establishment was a white British man who was calling for volunteers on a microphone. I was one of only three patrons, so I raised my paw and sang a couple of songs! Lots of fun that was.
I’m a sucker for buying white clothes and bought a pair of long linen pants while in Vietnam. Paired with a white cotton shirt, that has been my outfit when I go out at night. I just feel so posh wearing white! But there is already a little tear and less-white spots on said pants. Long may they last until I start looking like a charity case. Venues seem to shut up shop at 11pm too, which is interesting.
With the weekend coming, I needed to contemplate my next move, as this is my opportunity to change location from Uluwatu without having to worry about work. The neighbouring island of Lombok was next, but I was having a really tough time trying to find the most economical way of getting to the nearest port and booking a ferry ticket.
However, after confirming a 1-week booking at a homestay with a 9.6 rating on Booking dot com, the owner put me in touch with an agent who organized everything! Turning back to reviews, the majority expressed how they felt that the owner is the kindest person they have ever met, so I’m really looking forward to that stay and meeting this man.
It’s going to be an early start and I have had to resist attending a Full Moon party. I can rely on the chickens for an early wake up call.
Next: Indonesia #4 – The Land of The Mosques
Previously: Indonesia #2 – Uluwatu
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