Indonesia 2013: Ubud via The Lonely Planet

I found a travel a copy of The Lonely Planet guide to Bali at the homestay I was living in. It proved to be an invaluable resource! After reading the section on Ubud several times over, I shortlisted a few options and enjoyed a full, self-guided tour. Here’s what I got up to.

First stop was the Water Temple. Entrance to most temples in Bali are free, although donations are encouraged. The only criteria (for men) is to wear a sarong, which I had duly packed. Rules are stricter for women – no entrance if they are menstruating, for example. The temple wasn’t mind-blowing, but worth a visit. I have grown accustomed to Balinese statues and architecture, but this temple was lined with lotus flowers in semi-bloom.

Next stop was Bali Buddha – an organic market that sells a range of edibles and is a popular stop for tourists and travelers. Just browsing the shop was rewarding enough and I made a few gift purchases. I did however sample a blueberry muffin on Lonely Planet’s recommendation, which was pretty sweet.

The great thing about Ubud is that everything is within walking distance. What’s more tiring than walking, however, is keeping ever vigilant of scooters and gaping holes in the sidewalks. I continue to be astounded that I have not yet seen one accident (or even a close call) since being in Bali! The locals clearly learn how to drive young. There is always the option of hiring a scooter for the day, but I think I’ll stick to my bi-pods for now.

Lunch was at Mama Warung (another Lonely Planet recommendation). A friendly mama welcomes regulars with open arms, and their avocado chicken salad is fantastic.

I have thoroughly enjoyed the more laid-back vibe of Ubud. The locals are super friendly and always offer handshakes, waves and toothy smiles. I have however had my first sighting of beggars since beginning my travels. Ubud (central Bali) is clearly one of the poorer regions. Stray dogs are common. Strangely enough, I have come across several white-haired Australians who have decided to retire here. One wrinkled geezer told me that his reasoning is purely the lifestyle.

“The locals don’t do much around here and the food is my favourite in the world”, he said as he quaffed down another Bintang beer.

To sum up Ubud in a few sentences, it is first and foremost compulsory for art lovers. It is the cultural center of Bali and the range of artwork is astonishing: wooden carvings, glass artwork, paper kites, paintings, instruments, jewelry, beads and fabrics, all come in colourful and varied shapes and sizes.

I have also thoroughly enjoyed my ‘1-star’ homestay. It is run by a group of teenagers! A small fee gets you a double bed, ensuite bathroom, patio, garden, room cleaning, and breakfast delivered to your room. You do live among the locals (which I find great), and dogs, cats and chickens also share the space. In the near distance I could hear bells, drums, chimes, and the odd firework exploding. Lovely!

Ubud can be experienced in a day, but I’m glad I have chose a more casual, slow-paced experience. The only thing I missed was seeing some traditional dancing. I was hoping to find a place with free performances, but the going rate was a bit steep. I did however catch some local girls practicing before being caught in a big downpour! It was wondrously refreshing.

After having read The Lonely Planet guide cover-to-cover, I decided to stick with more relaxed vibes. I booked a shuttle bus headed for Sanur the next day – a place on the south-east side of the island that boasts calm, moonlit beaches at night and is said to be popular among retirees and family expats. I’m hoping to find basic accommodation on the beach and enjoy the serenity before heading back to Kuta in the hopes of getting my new bank card.

After a couple of nights in Sanur, followed by a couple back in Kuta, I hope to reunite with my local friend Andre and learn to surf. Thereafter it will be time to take the plunge and do some proper snorkeling and diving! I’m quite sure that the highlight of my trip is yet to come.

Next: Indonesia 2013: Sanur – A Pensioner’s Paradise

Previously: Indonesia 2013: Welcome to the Jungle!