No Woman No Cry (Indonesia Travel Diary #9)

Indonesia 9 – No Woman No Cry

I know that Dancing Queen by Abba is still a multi-universal favourite, but there have been at least three new musical hits since 1976 that everyone can sing along to. The same tired songs come at you from all directions. I’ll bet the playlists on Gili T haven’t changed in years. If anyone plans a visit, please bring a flash-stick loaded up with good music to donate to the island. Some of the local singers are really talented though. They should go on Indonesia’s Got Talent.

I had a scar on the top of my favourite foot that I got from a freak skateboarding accident when I was a teenager. The corals have now removed that and replaced it with a fresh wound! Can you get a scar on a scar? I noticed a pair of bandaged-up feet on the lounger near me. They should really have entry point signs showing where it’s safe and sandy to enter and exit the water. I just hope we didn’t damage the coral back. They are making a great effort to restore the reefs around here though. I observed big, sunken iron structures when I snorkeled beyond the designated areas.

I took a long walk around the coastline the one morning to get a fuller feel of the island. I was going to catch a donkey cart back, but soon realised how close I was to home. I had walked around the entire island! This can be achieved in 2-3 hours if you Don’t Stop! Believing! (Another song that is set on repeat-mode).

The west side has indeed become a lot more developed – with very fancy villas and resorts, and even several signs offering land for sale. The vibe is also much more peaceful than the east side. There were several honeymoon spots, wedding venues, yoga retreats and projectors with “movie night” signs attached. The general prices are inflated by at least three balloons-worth.

Back on the party coast, I enjoyed one of the best snorkels in beautifully clear waters! Bob Marely was playing for the 40th time when I emerged. In the evening I visited the Night Market, which had several stalls selling fresh seafood and raw satay ready to be barbequed on request. An order of two, large satay (kebabs), qualifies you to choose 5 generous sides of vegetables – all for 50,000 Rupiah. Although a lot of fly swatting is involved, I think I’ll enjoy that again and leave the caviar and shrimp cocktails to west coast foreigners to enjoy.

I always wonder what happens with the heaps of leftovers. I feel like no one is SE Asia is starving (in Thailand, Vietnam and Indonesia, at least). One hopes that all this unsold produce gets distributed among the locals. I also wonder if there is any kind of local policy regarding the distribution of wealth. The beachfront venues clearly rake in the bulk of Rupiah, while the inland places barely receive any patrons. There is one place offering Japanese cuisine, with a sign saying “40% off if you bring 4 friends or your whole family!”

If you walk alone or sit alone after dinner time, it doesn’t take more than 10 minutes to be approached by a local drug dealer. Magic Mushrooms are clearly no problem, and advertised on all four corners of the island, but you will get whispers in the earhole if you want weed, LSD, ecstasy, or cocaine. You can get the death penalty for those! During my long coastal walk, I passed by ONE police shack that has clearly been out of operation for some time. It was surrounded by rubble.

I did make a Russian friend over the last three days, who I will mention in the next update. She is no friend of Putin!


Next: Indonesia #10 – Manta Rays & Monkeys
Previously: Indonesia #8 – Gili Trawangan

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