I’m always on the hunt for an island where I can enjoy a good snorkel every morning without having to board a boat and pay a fee. Unfortunately, Bohol is not the place for that. Her waters are very shallow and her bottom is mostly covered in seagrass and spikey urchins.
There are however two small islands nearby called Balicasag and Pamilacan, but I learned that scuba diving at the former one requires having to book 2-3 months in advance! But the latter one had space available, so I signed up. I was told that the experience was just as good, but less popular because it takes twice as long to get there.
Unfortunately both dives were not great. The visibility was so kak and the current so strong that the dives mostly involved trying not to bump into corals. There were at least a lot of turtles and little colourful sea slugs, but that was about it. What I did find interesting was how the majority of fellow divers were retired Germans that were living in the Philippines with MUCH younger local wives. Such is life in the Philippines.
The Chocolate Hills of Bohol
It was my final full day on Bohol Island and the skies were blue, so I decided to take a very long bike-ride towards the Chocolate Hills right in the center of the landmass. It was only 100 pesos to visit this natural heritage site, but I had spent the last of my cash at a pharmacy en-route and only had 52 pesos to my name in coins.
None of the ATMs had any cash left in them, so I decided to appeal to human kindness. I explained to the gatekeepers that I had come all this way to see their islands’ natural beauty and had spent an extra 45-minutes trying to draw cash; could they perhaps consider my 52 pesos as sufficient. (I was short the equivalent of about ZAR15).
My appeal was being considered over walkie talkies, until a nearby car pulled up and an elderly woman (who I assume was local and could understand the language) very kindly offer me a 100 peso note from the car window! After much thanks with folded hands like a good Catholic, I delightfully offered the gatekeepers my donated note, but they said to keep it to use for gasoline for the long ride back. Amazing… Heart full.
The Chocolate Hills were okay. They were hilly and green and only turn chocolatey during the dry season. They’re more mint chocolate when watered. However, the formation of them is interesting, which I won’t explain or copy-paste, but you can find out about them here, if interested. This is however a romantic legend around the formation of the Chocolate Hills, which tells of a heartbroken giant who wept endlessly over the death of a human girl he loved. His tears solidified and created the rolling hills that remain today.
Churches & Catholicism in the Philippines
My inland visits on Bohol were more interesting. These included randomly stumbling upon a cathedral called Assumption of Our Lady. (Which lady and what we should assume about her, is unknown to me). I stepped inside and it so happened to be Saturday Mass. It was well populated with locals praying to dead white men. The cathedral is really beautiful with amazing artworks on the walls and entire roof. I simply ask: what would the 90% of Catholic Filipinos have believed in if the plundering Spanish never rocked up? What would you believe if you were born and raised in a different country – perhaps Papa New Guinee?
Apart from a kak-ton of churches and Jesus shrines around the Philippines, there are many little tuck shops with names such as Doreen’s Shop, Lyn’s Shop, and Jenny’s Shop. I find it hard to believe that there are many Filipinos actually named Doreen, Lyn and Jenny. Other common outlets are gambling kiosks and pawn shops. There is also tons of advertising for cheap cigarettes, the lottery, and electoral candidates.
I made the most of my 4-5 hour biking journey around Bohol with a stop at a waterfall where we all were allowed to take a plunge into the lovely blue and cool waters, and a stop at a Tarsier conservation area (even though these wide-eyed little creatures are fast asleep during the day). The highlight was a ride through a man-made forest which stretched for quite a long way. Many moons ago, the locals had planted trees on either side of this route, which have since grown tall and inwardly curved – providing total shade cover as well as pleasant viewing, but of course there are “photo sites” where one has to stop and wait for those who wish to get an Instagram pic while standing in the middle of the road.
Generally, there are several waterfalls, caves, and swimming spots in the Philippines due to the climate and earthy architecture. One was an underground limestone cave called Hinagdanan Cave. After climbing down a few steep steps, you’re semi underground and swimming with a very enthusiastic crowd of Koreans mostly wearing orange life jackets. I was so glad that I had packed my scuba mask, because the water was so clear and I could snorkel in the less-crowded spots. There were some fishes, but of course they were all huddled within little caves until closing time.
Bohol Nightlife
It has to be said that Bohol welcomes a lot of tourists and has quite a thriving nightlife. I really enjoyed a late one which started with finding a plastic chair and the perfect spot to squat as the sun set and simply watch as everything liven-up. This was followed by purchasing a dive torch (which I have always wanted) and enjoying a night snorkel! Watching a deadly Banded Sea Snake hunting was super special! By the end of it, I had made friends with three local dudes on the beach who were more than happy to answer my 101 questions.
In fact, the final highlight was happening across some more locals during the walk home, who were still enjoying a beach party with music at 2am. I danced towards the ocean nearby and heard loud cheers. The next thing a few of them were on their feet and squeaking some sand with me! They kept offering me food and beer, but the most precious moment was a little girl who I think had down syndrome, felt very shy, but was clearly keen to get involved. She eventually did and seemed to have the best time. I gave her a big high-five before walking on.
A selection of short videos on the Gram. Next stop, Siquijor!
Next: Philippines #6: Siquijor – Jol, Rinse, Repeat & Repent
Previously: Philippines #4: Bohol & Bum Gun Showers
Discover more from Roaming Unbound
Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.
