It’s so great when you become a familiar face in a place and the locals recognise you and ask how your day is going. I spent a night near an old fishing village and went for a walk through it during the day with my friend Alina and her little boy. Every single local said hello. The kids each said so about 10 times while waving so enthusiastically that their little hands were about to dislocate. Thailand has stiff competition for the title: The Land of Smiles.
We walked towards a huge ocean-facing house on top of a cliff and decided to see if anyone was home. We were welcomed in by a Frenchman and his Filipino wife who were more than happy to show us around. They had designed the entire double-story house themselves and had about two months to go before construction would be complete. They also explained how land prices are skyrocketing on Siquijor and that things will be quite different once the airport is completed… Cell signal is also shyte (currently).
The view from this hilltop home was quite something as the sun began to set, but sunsets in general in the Philippines can inspire poetry. The top spots for sunset-watching also come with a contented atmosphere of quiet chatting, laughter, and gentle music, as boats glide past, people bob in the calm ocean, and couples whisper sweet nothings into each other’s ears. It’s all very romantic. I think I could eventually meet someone special there.
It has become clear that Siquijor is fast becoming the new tourist hotspot after the islands of Palawan and Siargao. Extensive roadworks in Siquijor are ongoing and the strain of extra electricity required has been causing power outages. Why do some people cheer when the power goes off?!
Siquijor is also a dogs’ paradise, with so many unchecked strays… They roam free and get all the nookie and scraps that they could ever dream of. A very diseased looking one had found its way into my tent when I stayed at a campsite. The little creature was missing most of its hair, had milky eyes and wrinkly pink skin, and yelped as I tried to shoo it out and flip the mattress. It’s a real problem in the Philippines.
Yet still, the archipelago has my heart. When you’re hungry, there are plenty of roadside stops with pots of food to choose from. The locals are always smiling and singing. I made a selection of grub at one stop and sat to eat when the three women began singing using spoons as microphones. They sounded great too! When biking around during weekdays, school boys stick out their hands to receive high fives. School girls say hello and giggle like school girls when you respond.
Regarding the grownups, they eat, drink, sing and smile, and are very welcoming to foreigners. However, I will wager that there are more trans people in the Philippines compared to Thailand, which is quite interesting for a country that is 90% Catholic. Surely this means that they are not REALLY Catholic and just pray the gay away (or ask for acceptance) on Sundays? I’m not one to judge.
On my way to a barber shop, I passed a basketball court where some kind of school event was happening. A crowned prince and princess in full medieval garb with scepters, were on thrones while performers danced to “I’m a Barbie Girl” in front of a panel of judges. While getting my trim, I asked the young barber what their national sport was. He said, “Food!” Basketball is also popular.
I’ve been going to the same snorkeling spot called Tubod Marine Sanctuary every day. The conditions are mouthwatering and you’re permitted to go quite far out where it gets quite deep. I saw some scuba divers about 8 meters below me, and took a deep breath and free-dived down to signal that an octopus was hiding under a rock around the corner. I’m quite proud of my lungs. While having lunch on the surface, the sweetest little Filipino child climbed onto my table. You’re never alone in the Philippines.
A wonderful highlight from recent days was attending an ecstatic dance session at a place called Wonderland. We were all wearing twinkly headphones as two hippies guided us on a bit of a journey. Once randomly partnered up, one person was the sun and the other the moon. The moon had to try dance in sync with the sun. I was partnered with the lovely Alina who does yoga and made me sweat like a flipping waterfall when I was the moon! If I ever come back to Siquijor, I will definitely be booking into Wonderland.
Next: Philippines #8: Palawan
Previously: Philippines #6: Siquijor – Jol, Rinse, Repeat & Repent
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