Highlights and Lowlights (Seychelles Travel Diary #6)

Guests on the private North Island pay up to 6,000 Euros per night… No joke. They fly in and out via helicopter, so there is a general vibe that staff should not be heard nor seen unless requested. So a real lowlight became apparent on the third day of my stay whereby guests had been phoning the environmental manager asking who I was wandering around the island, and questioning my motives. This lead to me having to either hide away in my villa when I had nothing to do or spend the majority of my time with the Wildlife ACT volunteers, which I mostly did.

They were a group of 3 – young 19 year old Jake from Virginia on summer break, returning volunteer Sue from Singapore, and a Peruvian woman in her 50s named Gruchenka. I found them really struggling to understand me with my Natalian South African ek’cent so communicating was quite a challenge. I tried to avoid saying words like “fish”, “milk” or “hill”. I bonded mostly with the Peruvian woman who was very kind and patient. She’s a veterinarian back home with 30 dogs and cats and clearly loves all animals.

I had always planned to hang out with the volunteers (albeit with a little more freedom of movement) and this lead to the real highlights of my visit. Turtle patrols are done daily at sunrise, before anyone else plants a footprint in the sand. It was the peak of Green Turtle season and new tracks were found daily. The one night I got a call about a turtle that had just emerged. A silent golf-cart ride took us to the beach just in time to see a Green Turtle lay its eggs right before our eyes!

All precautions are taken not to cause the animals distress, and we ensured that the nest was as secure as possible – mostly by piling heaps of sand on top and packing it tightly with human bodyweight. I’m told that turtle eggs can endure huge amounts of pressure, and that crabs are their biggest enemy. We can only hope that they will hatch successfully and that the turtlings make it to the sea 55 days later. The survival rate of turtles making it to adulthood is about 1 in 10 000…

Another highlight was a SCUBA dive with CJ. I had hoped to do this more, but the environmental couple often get called at the drop of a thousand dollar note for guest activities. Whale Sharks had been spotted close to shore for three days in a row! This would have been a tick off the Bucket List, but we weren’t so lucky. We did see an amazing array of marine life though, including a curious Hawksbill Turtle, White-tipped Reef Sharks, Butterfly Fish, Angle Fish, Porcupine Fish, Eagle Rays etc. etc. etc. Being underwater is my bliss. I snorkelled most days with an underwater camera.

I also spent a fair amount of time in the nursery, helping plant seedlings and learning about the endemic plant species. Many are fruit-bearing, and have helped with the natural re-visitation of bird species, such as the Blue Pigeon. It’s so amazing when species return via their own volition. A favourite fruity snack for the giant tortoises is the Indian Mulberry, which smells and tastes EXACTLY like blue cheese! I’m not a fan.

A gentle hike up Spa Hill (one of the three highest points) was also a huge highlight (see photos). This gave a real bird’s-eye view of the island and its smallness. I couldn’t help but notice the unpopulated beaches. I’m told that the owner of the island (who shall not be named due to a disclosure agreement) only allows 50% occupancy at any given time. But still, no millionaires to be seen… Isn’t it strange how wealth is wasted on the rich?

I can sincerely say that my overall experience on North Island was good (and educational). I feel like I got the most out of my 5 day stay – an opportunity which will not likely come around again. And I wasn’t alone. Every person who asked whether I was going to the Seychelles solo gave sympathetic head-tilts, but I felt really at peace with the few fellow staff members that I shared the experience with. It did suck having to tip-toe around the guests, but I got a sense that those who live and work there really appreciate what they have.

Next: Seychelles #7: Farewell North Island

Previously: Seychelles #5: Food & Trivia