I watched a group boarding a longtail boat while eating banana pancakes. It was windy and overcast and the surf was choppy. I could sense their disappointment. I had hoped to scuba dive as a birthday treat, so I rented a scooter and took a ride along the coastline to see if I could find a dive center. For the novice petrol-head, it was a 125cc scooter, and a red one! 200 Baht per day, booked for 5 days.
The road came to an end at some sort of park where a crowd was gathering. I curiously approached a young German chap. They were about to set off island hopping and snorkeling! I immediately asked the organisers if they might have space for my brown butt and told them it was my birthday. After a few back and fourths with the boss man, they could seat me, with a small discount too! I quickly added my name to the list without quite knowing what I was signing up for.
What followed was island hopping from a long-tailed boat, which included four different islands with three snorkels! These are traditional, wooden boats, that are powered by a propeller at the end of a long bamboo and iron pole. They’re quite speedy! The conditions and visibility weren’t great, but the coral reefs are well-protected with a good amount of life. The massive clams were a highlight. Some were at least a foot long, in bright oranges, greens and purples. No Whale Sharks though 😉
I’ve been wanting to buy a mask and snorkel so that I can investigate the Thai seas at my own leisure. Lo and behold, I found a good quality mask on the ocean floor! I just need a bamboo straw and I’m good to go – at no charge!
The day ended with a barbecue-style lunch/dinner on a final island during sunset. This was a generous helping of flame-grilled chicken, prawns, a piece of fish, rice, vegetables, and a wedge of mealie. The wind had died down and I nodded off for a bit on the beach while listening to joyous, water-wallowing laughter and Ed Sheeran playing from some local’s backpack. I felt hugely relaxed.
The night trip back brought a final surprise. We stopped on the dark side of an island to see bioluminescent plankton! I had envisioned seeing the surface lit up with bioluminescence, but this only showed itself when you fiddled with the water. But pop on a mask, dunk your head, and swirl your hand around, and you could perform an underwater magic show! The one passenger was wearing a black top, who scooped up some water and her belly glistened like a disco ball. We just needed a whale to leap out of the water and I would have pissed my pants with delight and contentment.
What lovely and unexpected surprises for an unplanned birthday! And how lucky to have made a new friend to share the island hopping experience with. Manuel and I agreed that these are the joys of solo travel. (He too was solo venturing). I also learnt a fun fact from Pong (our tour guide). Jellyfish are attracted to light and gather in swarms inshore at night. Good to know for anyone considering a midnight dip!
After a slow scooter ride back to a cleaned digs with fresh towels and linen, I visited the night market and treated myself with various nibbles. It was just a bit sad to see such low attendance, but it was low season after all. There was even a huge but empty stage. The other night venues (restaurants and bars) were either empty or at less than 50% capacity (at most). The rest were mostly clothing stalls all selling the same tacky shit. Many tourists wear the classic elephant trunks and flowy pants.
There are some temples and natural pools for me and my wheeled red baron to visit next. I could skip the tourist fees that include hotel pick-ups and mealie wedges, get to the preferred spots via my own wheels, and simply follow the tour groups. There was also Railay Beach to visit, but I doubted that my scooter was amphibious.
Next: Thailand #12 – A Scoot and a Dip
Previously: Thailand #10 – Crab Man in Krabi
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