God must have been watering his garden above Ao Nang because it BUCKETED down with rain! I could barely walk with my concrete calves after the sky temple pilgrimage, so I was more than happy to order food and chill. I wrote a quick review for the Krabi Forest Homestay:
“My stay was even better than expected at the low price! I could not have been happier staying there. Huge, clean bedroom serviced every afternoon and super friendly and helpful staff. It’s also very peaceful at night, yet still close to all the action, as well as the beach. 10/10”.
I’m getting addicted to 7 Eleven iced coffee – the mocha in particular for 40 Bhat. I enjoyed one of those near the beach when the skies cleared, while waiting for the ferry to Phi Phi Island. Eye of the Tiger started blasting from a tuk tuk. They were announcing a big Muay Thai tournament kicking off that evening. (This is kickboxing and the most popular sport in Thailand). I watched the waves returning the odd flip-flop to shore before getting picked up along with a Texan woman who had been cramming in 1-2-night stays at a billion different places. I felt lucky to not be as timebound as her.
The sun was now gorgeously plump as we boarded the ferry to Phi Phi. I honestly thought it would be a little dingy, but it was like a wingless Boeing. It took 2 hours at the cost of 500 Bhat. Some passengers took a kip en route, but that familiar banter began as we approached land. I again just have to comment, that as soon as we had cell signal again, the young folk began watching Netflix and the YouTubes on their phones. Tourist brochures often list Instagram as a highlight. For example: “Attractions: Viking Cave, Monkey Beach, Instagram Photo”. Later on (during sunset) I saw some youths playing mobile games and missing it all…
Locals were holding up fancy signs for hotels at the docks. My one was scribbled in blue khoki pen by a scrawny little man, which read “Beachside Bungalows”. I was the only arrival for this destination. He loaded my beefy backpack on a metal cart and SPED off! It must have been a 10-minute speed-walk until he ditched the cart and hoisted my backpack on his little frame supported by matchstick legs. I could barely keep up! Of all the negative reviews for this accommodation, most complain about the difficulty of getting there. You do have to navigate over some rocks and roots, but it was totally worth it. Clever me also packed a headlamp if needed.
I had about 3 hours left of sunlight and found a steep path down to the rocky shoreline near my doorstep. Had a warm dip with the corals and fishes. It was low tide, which was REALLY low in the shallow waters. Dry sand was at least 300 meters in-land. A good knowledge of the Thai tide schedule could get me to and from my digs along the beach very easily if timed right.
Phi Phi is not scooter territory, so my legs needed to power through the burn! I had the idea to rent a kayak for a full 5 days and explore the island at my own leisure, rather than pay the 400 Bhat hourly rate. The woman looked quite confused by my proposal and asked me how much I would pay. I suggested 1000 Bhat, and I think she agreed. Kayaks are for rent everywhere so it should be easy to wangle a good rate. This is also Tattoo City, with SO many tattoo parlours and people covered from head to toe like the Māori, who actually earned their ink.
My bungalow was thankfully equipped with a working aircon! No fridge though, but I was sure I could MacGyver a beer-cooling setup with a wet sarong holding a can or two under the aircon. The negative reviews did also warn about loud beach party music. They’re not lying. The party schedule in Thailand seems a bit strange. Loud bass from “the most epic pool party in Thailand” could be heard on arrival, and this happened every Sunday, Tuesday and Thursday. Look after your ears, kids. The chilled music from the smaller beachside spots have to compete with this – places like “Freedom Bar”, “Relax Bar”, and my favourite-sounding one, “The Only Bar”.
After a long walk around, I settled at Sunset Bar, and the name delivered. I decided to relax freely and wait for the 8pm fire show to kick off. There were two British lads nearby smoking a fattie (joint). Another two lads then hobbled past carrying their shit-faced friend to who-knows-where. I started to enjoy feeling older and more mature. A highlight was laughing at a local dad (perhaps an older brother) chase a little boy with a crab. I heard the one lad say, “dude, I’m having such a hectic trip right now”, while restlessly rubbing his legs. Then there were three fire shows happening at once! One guy got a flaming ball stuck in the tree above. He then fought fire with fire to get it down – attacking the burning blob with his flamed javelin.
I then got offered drugs by a waiter. He showed me the drinks menu, then asked me to hold it, and presented a custom-made menu, with prices for cocaine, MDMA, magic mushrooms, and of course (legal) marijuana. Not today, thanks. Nitrous Oxide (laughing gas) is also a thing. 200 Bhat for a balloon and a few honks. This is clearly Party Island, with no police in sight. I thought that Phuket might be like this, with all their constant flight specials. I made my exit when the music lyrics changed to “you’re such a fucking whore. I like it”… Come on humanity! Smell a flower that’s not on Instagram for once.
I’m loving solo travel and really enjoying my own company, but of course, it would always be good to share it all with someone. But you’re never alone with a phone in this age. Just beware of any local-looking girls sitting alone. They want your money. Final, random thought, but I find Thai toddlers/children to be the sweetest things. I think if I were ever to adopt, I would like one of those please. (Sorry Mom).
Next: Thailand #15 – Learning to Frog
Previously: Thailand #13 – I Would Walk 1,260 Steps
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