In September 2014, the dead bodies of two British tourists were found on a beach in Koh Tao – a small island off Thailand’s east side. In 2018, a British traveler was found dead in a hotel pool. In 2021, the lifeless bodies of a billionaire couple were also found floating in a pool. In 2019, the Thai supreme court imposed the death penalty on two Burmese men allegedly guilty for the 2014 murders, which was later commuted to life in prison. Some now call the place “Murder Island”. I think it looks lovely! The trip did cause some vomiting though.
It took a taxi ride, shuttle bus, big bus, speed boat, and a ferry, to get to Koh Tao in 10 hours. I have respect for skippers who can navigate a speed boat over big swells. I was sat right up front watching the barefooted man spin the wheel from left to right while getting drenched from head to foot. On the ferry they started handing out small black bags. Uh oh… Three people around me started getting sick. Then another, and another, in a sort of chain reaction effect. I took shallow breaths but noticed the person next to me not looking too peaky. The staff were staggering and falling around to offer paper towels to the less fortunate. I got lucky and was fine.
It had not been a fun day and I met the first unfriendly Thai person since my travels! The shuttle bus driver FLUNG our luggage in the back. I managed to catch my backpack with a hardened upper leg before it landed in the mud. We all squeezed in like fat sardines and our naps were interrupted by hooting and sharp braking. A sort of silent bond forms between strangers who live through such things together. By the end we were helping the Big Bus driver with the luggage and putting out chairs at the docks.
I was on Murder Island (Koh Tao) for a few days to scuba dive, before being done with the south. My weather app showed an 80-100% chance of rain every day of the week. The real bummer is that I had just missed Whale Shark season which ended in June. There was still a chance I might see one though!
To end on a happy note, a new favourite Thai dish is “Morning Glory” – a vegetarian plate of green made with a water spinach (the soft heads and the erect bits). Add to that all the good things (garlic, soy sauce, spices etc.) and you can start your morning off quite gloriously.
Next: Thailand #22 – It’s Raining Men
Previously: Thailand #20 – Then I Was Totally Alone
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