I had been on a diet of bananas, rice crackers, fat free yogurt, electrolytes, activated charcoal, bland rice dishes and Smecta for five days. I don’t think I need to explain why. A Night Market was close by, so one evening I did a quick walk through it to see and smell all the things I couldn’t eat…
It was Friday night, so I headed out. Bum be damned! I biked around until I heard live music. I entered an entirely local joint and got offered a seat with a couple which seemed to be a father and daughter. I loved being the only farang there! The drunk dad-like figure did get a bit weird though, by constantly tapping my arm and making heart shapes with his hands.
It took three mini busses to get to my next destination – the little province called Trang. The last bus was packed with locals. There was even some laundry hanging in the back. We pulled up next to two farangs before leaving Krabi. They had flashy helmets and big bikes (scooters) where you put your feet up much like a Harley. They even had speakers mounted which pumped music. They lit cigarettes as they sped off.
It was Saturday night, so I again followed my ears while walking about. It was another wonderful moment of being the only farang at a purely Thai jol! I was wearing all white and got lots of looks and attention. I sat with a psycho (but genuine) grin as I watched the band play.
I was booked in for a week in Trang in a modest hotel called The Glasshouse. The elderly owners are sweethearts. When I rented a bike, I asked if they had one of those attachments where you could mount your phone to use navigation as you rode. The hotel lady said she would go buy me one and off she went to do just that!
I headed towards the coast (a good hour-long ride) and the day ended up being full of wonderfully unexpected surprises. I made a pit-stop at a waterfall and followed some ascending steps to some kind of King Cobra shrine! I always find it funny how there are offerings of soft drinks at the foot of such places.
I rode on and needed a pee. I stopped at a small bushy area where I could see a pool of water and a few tables, with no one in sight. I was about to leave and saw something moving in the trees. There were three Gibbons swinging about from just across the pond! It was so magical. I watched them for ages and ended up being joined by a large family with six children.
Just as I was about to get back on the road, a tractor was approaching that was towing a big golden dragon. I suppose one would call it a float. There were happy hellos by locals on board and one “welcome to Thailand!” I later asked if there was some sort of celebration happening for the king, and that was exactly the case!
Finally at the coast, the sea was brown and choppy, but you could walk right up to some limestone mountains and give them a kiss. I followed the little muddy road right to the end and came across some derelict buildings that looked like forgotten temples that were being consumed by foliage. It felt quite spooky, but what a find!
At the other end of the road was an aquarium. There were some very prehistoric-looking creatures in there that I had never seen before! On exit I was just on time to see the next seal show. I wasn’t particularly interested as it’s hard to tell if the seals actually enjoy performing, but I wanted to see how the Thai might do things differently. Instead of balancing balls on their noses, they did such with a barbie doll and a toilet plunger.
I took a different road out which led to one more unexpected surprise. There was some sort of aviary tunnel, but no signs or clear entrance. I found a way in. There were mostly chickens, goats and peacocks, but I spotted two very distressed-looking eagles in the one cage…
What a day in Trang that was! It reminded me of something I read once: “Travelers don’t know where they are going”. Feels bang on.
Next: Trang Botanical Gardens & Loud Bangs
Previously: Krabi: Mango Grooves & Chilli Butt
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