At first, Da Lat in eastern Vietnam felt like Zululand with its rolling green hills. What was different were pointier huts all equipped with solar geysers, as well as a countless number of greenhouses. Da Lat is a high-tech agricultural powerhouse.
An endless number of markets sell everything from fruit and veg to nuts and oils to cordials and candy. Goods are canned, dried, fresh, fermented, pickled, roasted, sugar coated – you name it. I’ve enjoyed grazing from bags of roasted chestnuts and dried fruit. There are also silk shops, candy factories, breweries, and more coffee shops that one could ever visit in a single lifetime.
I wore socks for the first time in 5 months due to the cooler weather in the Da Lat mountains and have been giving my legs a good stretch which included some steep hikes. One was a little pilgrimage to a Taoist temple at the top of a hill in a pine tree forest. There was no one up there, perhaps because it’s not bike accessible. The temple had a crucifix on top, as well as an offering of those brightly-coloured feather dusters.
I made my way down towards the greenhouses. Google Maps had identified some farms as tourist attractions. Trekking up another incline, a little woman in a puffy winter jacket stopped her bike and offered me a lift to my destination. Before I could offer to pay her, she turned around with a smile and scooted off.
Unfortunately, the gates to three different farms we all locked tight – as well as an entrance to a beer garden and garden café. On my way back, the same little lady saw me and again offered a lift! I didn’t want to push my luck, so politely declined her offer and stopped for a cup of the strongest coffee I have ever had in my life.
There were no identifiable tourists in sight. This particular area, where all the goods are grown, felt quite industrial, with a lot of delivery truckers and bikers. The dwellings were a mix of humble hovels and some very fancy homes with expensive cars in the driveways. There is big money here – thanks to exports, I’m sure.
Next stop was at the Crazy House – a major tourist attraction. One is greeted by a bored human prop wearing a silly costume. She robotically gave some very vague directions through the ‘crazy’ complex. It felt very kitsch, with big, ugly statues and childlike props and paint jobs. The walkways were also so narrow that the experience largely involved bumping into other people who had taken a wrong turn and having to decide who should backtrack.
I read some trivia in the “aquarium room”. Crazy House (built between 1990 and 2005) was a “dream brought to life” by the daughter of some wealthy king. She wanted to remind people about the “importance of bonding with nature”. She said, “Every person thirsts for Independence Liberty. I therefore give expression to such ideas.”
What is she on about?? It’s like daddy funded her school project. You wouldn’t believe that it’s also a hotel! You can peer right into the rooms which have a little sign on the open doors saying, “please don’t knock. Guests are staying here.” Who on Earth would want to stay there?! I think the young princess designer was a little cooked.
I hit the school rush on the way out. It was noon and time for their long midday break. A little boy in blue (winter jersey and tracksuit pants) kindly helped me across the road and I took refuge in a Catholic church. A Vietnamese boy was praying to a statue of Jesus while sitting on a painted Star of David. A white man dressed like Friar Tuck was also hanging about. Catholicism has left its mark thanks to 300 years of French occupation. It felt more like a workshop producing Christmas decorations.
Next stop was at a very disappointing “waterfall”. This was really just polluted brown water flowing over rocks at a 30-degree decline. There were more ugly painted statues here, of very fake-looking deer, elephants and tigers. There was one chap dressed like a cowboy standing next to a horse. The reviews said to watch out for him. He will ask if you want a photo on the pony then bill you through the teeth.
Final stop for the day was at a big city square. Built just before Covid times, it also felt very kitsch. In the center was a big, spiral restaurant in the shape of a soft-serve ice-cream, with curved walls made of green and yellow plastic. It was empty and the staff looked very hopeful when I poked my head in to have a quick look. The other two large buildings were also plastic and roundish. One led to an underground mall, while the other was an Opera House blocked by a huge metal gate. I think this particular dream never did come to life.
After being dropped back at my hotel by bike, I was searching for the nearest convenience store on my phone, when the bike taxi man pulled up and asked if I was at the right place. I said I was, and just busy thinking of going to the quickie mart. He took me there for free and said that he just wanted to make sure I was okay! Then, after making a selection of fruits at a little street grocer, I gave the woman a 500,000 Dong note thinking it was 50K note. I gave her a puzzled look when she handed me so much change. She kindly explained what had happened with a smile.
I was forming a good impression of the Dalatians.
Next: Vietnam #18 – A Maze Balls Bar
Previously: Vietnam #16 – Can Tho: The Land of Plenty
Discover more from Roaming Unbound
Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.