I’m regretting not having done at least a little bit of research into the local area before booking a full week stay. My morning walk got blocked by a big construction gate. I was trying to get to a garden cafe but Google Maps wasn’t having any of that. It was so fun getting lost in Thailand, but Vietnamese side-streets have you stepping in mud puddles and hugging the high concrete wall as another scooter hoots past.
I finally hit a lively street, with locals and not-so-locals gathered at little chairs along the sidewalks. I hadn’t even had my first Vietnamese coffee yet! At a coffee shop, I asked if they served the famous eggy one. They didn’t, so I pointed at “Vietnamese White Coffee”. I also ordered a tea after being told it was their best seller.
This shot glass came out with a bland tasting, pee-coloured liquid! I thought I had been swindled until I realised that this was a complimentary starter that they kept refilling. Both the coffee and the big, fruity tea I ordered were amazing. And hooray for paper straws!
Like my peace-loving father, I found a quiet place to sit and simply observed everything around me. It was early evening and there was quite a buzz. Children were playing and squealing joyfully, a mix of ages were using the public gym, dogs were being walked, a few joggers breezed past, and some others were enjoying that volleyball game you play with your feet. I later had a go at a similar game with two people tapping a sort of shuttlecock. I was rubbish! This is certainly sport and fitness culture.
The Vietnamese are also very family-oriented. There was a big town square nearby where various playpens had been set up. My feet nearly got run over by a small battery-powered tank. There were a variety of games on the go as well as a selection of colourful Hello Kitty cars to ride. What fun! Large families were also seated on blankets, enjoying a wide array of different dishes in small bowls. It was hard to find a table for one!
I noticed that a few places were closed and learnt that it was the Hungry Ghosts Festival – a day on the Lunar Calendar when the gates of hell open up and sinful souls roam among the living! It originates from Taoism and Buddhist belief and is also a time to respect and worship the ancestors, provide offerings, and also to practice forgiveness for all the naughty souls.
According to the interwebs, generally two feasts are prepared for the hungry ghosts, one in the morning for your ancestors, and one at sunset for the lost and forgotten souls. This is known as “hell money” and is offered through street fires to maintain compassion. For the living, an important part is for children to show respect for their parents and elders. This explained the big gatherings and activities I was witnessing. How special!
Here are 8 things that one shouldn’t do during the Hungry Ghosts Festival unless you’re keen to be cursed with bad luck:
- Don’t leave clothes hanging outside all night.
- Don’t stand too close to the wall. (Whoops!)
- Don’t take the last bus or train ride. (Safe)
- Don’t leave your slippers facing the bed.
- Don’t take pictures late at night. (Sorry!)
- Don’t shave your legs.
- Don’t whistle at night.
- Don’t put your hand on someone’s shoulder.
If I had taken a backseat bike ride home, I would have totally cursed that poor driver.
Next: Vietnam #4 – What The Pho
Previously: Vietnam #2 – Taken for a Ride
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